Umrah is, before anything else, a journey of the heart. But the modern pilgrim still has to get through visas, apps, airports, hotels, health rules and regulations that keep shifting before that journey can begin in peace. This Practical Information section pulls together, in one place, the worldly know-how you need so that nothing avoidable gets in the way of why you came.

I’ve laid the section out as a journey in its own right: planning at home, travelling to Saudi Arabia, settling into Makkah and Madinah, then guidance written specifically for women and for families with children, followed by health and accessibility, technology and money, and at last the journey home and the life you return to. You can read each chapter on its own or work straight through, and each one ends with a short reflection that brings the practical side back to what the pilgrimage actually means.

A word about information that changes. Visa rules, Nusuk and Rawdah procedures, vaccination requirements, transport options, prices, Zamzam allowances, airport processes and emergency services all change from time to time, so the figures here — given in Saudi Riyal (SAR) unless I’ve said otherwise — are a guide rather than gospel. Take everything in this book as a well-informed starting point, not the last word. Before each trip, check the current details through official Saudi channels, including the Nusuk app and platform and the Visit Saudi portal, and with your airline, your embassy or consulate, recognised health authorities and a trusted, licensed operator.

A word about religious guidance. What this book offers is practical travel advice and general background, nothing more. Matters of fiqh (jurisprudence) can differ between schools of thought and from one person’s circumstances to the next; where I’ve summarised rulings, they reflect mainstream positions, and you should ask a qualified scholar about anything specific to your own situation.